Hallowed by the aura of Shri Krishna The
land where Lord Krishna was born and spent his youth, has today little
towns and hamlets that are still alive with the Krishna- legend and
still redolent with the music of his flute. Mathura, a quiet town on the
River Yamuna was transformed into a place of faith after Lord Krishna
was born here. Vrindavan, a village - once noted for its fragrant
groves, is where he spent an eventful youth. There are numerous other
little spots in the area that still reverberate with the enchantment of
Lord Krishna.
The city of Mathura, in Uttar Pradesh, the nucleus
of Brajbhoomi, is located at a distances of 145 km south- east of Delhi
and 58 km north-west of Agra. Covering an area of about 3,800 sq. km.
today, Brajbhoomi can be divided into two distinct units - the eastern
part in the trans-Yamuna tract with places like Gokul, Mahavan, Baldeo,
Mat and Bajna and the western side of the Yamuna covering the Mathura
region that encompasses Vrindavan, Govardhan, Kusum Sarovar, Barsana and
Nandgaon.
The land of Braj starts from Kotban near Hodel about
95 km from Delhi and ends at Runakta which is known specially for its
association with the great poet Surdas, an ardent Krishna devotee.
The embodiment of loveRevered
as the most endearing of the Hindu gods, Shri Krishna is fondly
remembered for his charm, his mischievous pranks and his extraordinary
exploits. As the charioteer and preceptor to Arjun in the famous battle
of Kurukshetra, he revealed to the world the supreme truths of life.
Shri Krishna, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, was born in the Dwapara
Yuga as the eighth son of the Yadava prince Vasudev and his wife Devaki.
To save him from his maternal uncle Kansa wrath, the infant Krishna was
spirited away soon after birth to Gokul, the village of the gopas
(cowherds) in Braj. It was here that he grew to manhood, in the tender
care of his foster parents Nand and Yashoda in the happy company of the
cowherds.
MathuraA long line of
picturesque Ghats - with their steps leading to the water's edge, arched
gateways and temple spires extending along the right bank of the River
Yamuna, emphasis the sacred character of the town of Mathura. The birth
place of Lord Krishna, "the best known, best loved and most complex of
Lord Vishnu's manifestations" - Mathura is today an important place of
pilgrimage. The city stretches along the right bank of the Yamuna and
the continuous line of Ghats along the river makes a splendid spectacle
when viewed from the opposite bank.
Today, Mathura is a city of
temples and shrines abustle with the thousands of devotees who come to
visit the city of Lord Krishna. A splendid temple at the Katra Keshav
Dev marks the spot that is believed to be the Shri Krishna Janmasthan -
the birthplace of the Lord, by his devotees. Another beautiful shrine,
the Gita Mandir, located on the Mathura -Vrindavan Road has a fine image
of Shri Krishna in its sanctum. The whole of the Bhagwad Gita is
inscribed on the walls of this temple.
The most popular shrine at
Mathura is the Dwarikadhish Temple to the north of the town, dedicated
to Shri Krishna. This was built in 1815 by a staunch and wealthy
devotee, Seth Gokuldas Parikh, Treasurer of the State of Gwalior.
There
are about 25 Ghats in Mathura today, of which the most important is the
Vishram Ghat. Where according to legend, Shri Krishna took his rest
after killing Kansa.
It is at Vishram Ghat that the traditional
parikrama (circumbulation of all the important religious and cultural
places of the city) starts and ends. The 12 Ghats to the north of
Vishram Ghat include the Ganesh Ghat, Dashashwamedh Ghat with its
Neelakantheshwar Temple, Saraswati Sangam Ghat, Chakratirtha Ghat,
Krishnaganga Ghat, Somatirth or Swami Ghat, Ghantagharan Ghat,
Dharapattan Ghat, Vaikuntha Ghat, Navtirtha or Varahkshetra Ghat,
Asikunda ghat and Manikarnika Ghat. To the south, there are 11 Ghats -
the Guptatirth Ghat, Prayag Ghat marked by the Veni Madhav Temple, Shyam
Ghat, Ram Ghat, Kankhal Ghat, the site of the Janmashtami and Jhula
festivals, Dhruva ghat, Saptrishi Ghat, Mokshatirth Ghat, Surya Ghat,
Ravan Koti Ghat and Buddha Ghat.
The Vishram Ghat is lined with
elegant temples and some of Mathura's most important shrines are found
here - the Mukut Temple, Radha-Damodar, Murli Manohar, Neelkantheshwar,
Yamuna-Krishna, Langali Hanuman and Narasimha temples. The baithak of
the great Vaishnava Saint, Shri Chaitanya, is also near by.
The
aarti held at the Vishram Ghat each evening is not to be missed, for the
little oil lamps that are floated on the river set the placid water as
sparkle with a myriad flickering lights.
No pilgrimage to Mathura
is complete without a visit to its kunds. Tradition has it that there
were 159 ancient kunds in all. Of these only four survive and can be
seen. There is the elegant shiv Tal, the more famous Potara Kund
associated closely with Lord Krishna besides the Balbhadra and Saraswati
kunds.
The town has a number of Shaivite temples as well. The
chief among them being the Bhuteshwar Mahadev Temple to the west of the
town, the Gokarneshwar Temple in the north, the Rangeshwar. Mahadev
Temple to the south and the Pipaleshwar Mahadev Temple to the east.
Lyrical expressions of Braj cultureSanjhee This
is the colourful art of decorating the ground with flowers. The story
goes that Shri Krishna in order to please Radha, decorated the floor
with flowers one evening and thereafter this art was known as Sanjhee.
Raaslila According
to the Bhagwat Purana, Shri Krishna along with the gopis had danced the
Raas on the banks of the Yamuna at Vrindavan. When the gopis felt
conceited about Lord Krishna dancing with them, he disappeared from
their midst. In the agony of separation from the beloved Krishna, the
gopis recalled and enacted his lilas (divine episodes of his life) which
in course of time came to be known as the Raaslila. The Raaslila in its
present form is ascribed to Swami Haridas and Shri Narayan Bhatt. Only
young Brahmin boys of 13 to 14 years of age can perform the Raaslila.
The charming childhood pranks of Shri Krishna constitute the main theme
of these dramas.
Charkula This is a
traditional folk dance of Braj, where a female dancer balances a column
of lighted lamps over her head while dancing. The charkula, a tapered
wooden column with four to five circular tiers has earthen lamps on each
level. The number of lamps can range from 51 to 108 at times. The
dancer with her face veiled, moves with swift, graceful movements while
balancing the 40 to 50 kilogram charkula on her head. A dramatic dance
that is visually attractive, it is performed on the Dooj of Holi, to the
accompaniment of Rasiya songs rendered by the menfolk.
RasiyaThis
is the rich tradition of folk-songs that is found in the Braj area.
Rasiya songs describe the love of the divine couple Radha and Shri
Krishna. It is an inseparable part of the Holi celebrations and all
other festive occasions at Braj. The Rasiya is sung to the rhythm of
huge drums, locally known as bumb.
Area : 3,780 sq. km. (Mathura District)
Population (urban) : 4,55,251 (1991 census)
Altitude above sea level : 187 meters
Places to visitLying
on the northern bank of the River Yamuna is the Kans Qila, now mostly
in ruins. An observatory, akin to the Jantar Mantar at Delhi, was built
here at a later date by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh (1699-1743) of Amer.
Sati
Burj, 17 mt. high, built of red sandstone in 1570 AD, is a slim tower
which commemorates the death of a noble lady - widow of Raja Bihari Mal
of Amer who committed sati. The four storeyed tower was erected by Raja
Bhagwan Das on the right bank of the Yamuna at Sati Ghat
The Jama Masjid with its four lofty minarets and bright mosaic, built in 1661 AD, is also a must see.
The
Government Museum, Mathura originally founded by F.S. Growse in 1874,
is today one of the leading centers for research, study and the
preservation of Mathura' s splendid heritage of art. The museum housed
in a fine octagonal, red sandstone building, located at Dampier Park,
has the largest collection of Kushana sculptures in the country.
The
Museum has also fine collections of stone sculpture and terra-cotta,
gold, silver and copper coins, clay seals, ancient pottery, paintings
and bronzes.
For more information contact: Director, Government Museum, Dampier Park, Mathura, Ph : (0565)403191
Museum visiting hours : 1st July to 30th April: 10.30 AM to 4.30 PM, 1st May to 30th June : 7.30 AM to 12.30 PM
Closed on Monday, and every second Sunday of every month and other Govt. gazetted holidays.
Area : 3,780 sq. km. (Mathura District)
Population (urban) : 4,55,251 (1991 census)
Altitude above sea level : 187 meters
NandgoanNadgaon
lies 8.5 km north of Barsana on the metalled road to Mathura (56 km).
According to tradition, it was the home of Shri Krishna's foster father,
Nand. On the top of the hill is the spacious temple of Nand Rai, built
by the Jat ruler Roop Singh. The other temples here are dedicated to
Narsingha, Gophinath, Nritya Gopal, Girdhari, Nand Nandan and Yashoda
Nandan which is located half way up the hill. A little beyond is the Pan
Sarovar, a large lake with masonry Ghats along its sides. Legend has
it, that this was the place where Shri Krishna used to take his cows for
water. Not far away is the Kadamb grove called Udhoji - Ka- Kyar.
RadhakundJust
5 km north of Govardhan and 26 km west of Mathura, Radhakund is a large
lake, where Shri Krishna is said to have killed Arista - the bull
demon. To commemorate this event, every year on the 8th day of the dark
half of the month of Kartik (Oct./Nov.), a large fair is held here.
VrindavanVrindavan,
just 15 km from Mathura, is another major place of pilgrimage. It is
noted for its numerous temples - both old and modern. The name Vrindavan
evokes the playfulness and lovable characteristics of Shri Krishna.
This is the wood where he frolicked with the gopis and tenderly wooed
Radha.
Vrindavan today, is noted for its numerous temples. The most important are :
The
Madan Mohan Temple located near the Kali Ghat which was built by Kapur
Ram DAs of Multan. This is the oldest existent temple in Vrindavan
today. The temple is closely associated with the saint Chaitanya. The
original idol of Lord Madan Gopal was shifted from the shrine to Karauli
in Rajasthan for safe keeping, during Aurangzeb's rule. Today, replica
of the image is worshipped at the temple.
The Banke Bihari Temple
built in 1864 is the most popular shrine at Vrindavan. The image of
Banke Bihari was discovered in Nidhi Vana by Swami Haridas Ji, the great
Krishna devotee, belonging to the Nimbarka sect.
The famous
Radha Vallab Temple set up by the Radha-Vallab sect, has the crown of
Radha-Rani placed next to the Shri Krishna idol in the sanctum.
The
Jaipur Temple which was built by Sawai Madhav Singh, the Maharaja of
Jaipur in 1917, is a richly embellished and opulent temple. The fine
hand - carved sandstone is of unparalleled workmanship. The temple is
dedicated to Shri Radha-Madhav.
The Shahji Temple, another
popular temple at Vrindavan, was designed and built in 1876 by a wealthy
jeweler, Shah Kundan Lal of Lucknow. The deities at the temple are
popularly known as the Chhote Radha Raman.
Noted for its
magnificent architecture and beautiful marble sculpture, the temple has
twelve spiral columns each 15 feet high. The 'Basanti Kamra' - the
darbar hall is famed for its Belgian glass chandeliers and fine
paintings.
The Rangaji Temple, built in 1851, is dedicated to
Lord Ranganatha or Rangaji depicted as Lord Vishnu in his Sheshashayi
pose, resting on the coils of the sacred Shesha-nag. The temple built in
the Dravidian style has a tall gopuram (gateway) of six storeys and a
gold plated Dhwaja Stambha, 50 feet high. A water tank and a picturesque
garden lie within the temple enclosure. The annual festival of Jal
Vihar of the presiding deity is performed with great pomp and splendor
at the tank. The temple is also famous for its 'Brahmotsav' celebration
in March-April, more popularly known as the 'Rath kA Mela'. The ten day
long celebrations are marked by the pulling of the rath (the chariot
car) by the devotees from the temple to the adjoining gardens.
The
Govind Deo Temple was once a magnificent seven storeyed structure built
in the form of a Greek cross. It is said that the Emperor Akbar donated
some of the red sandstone that had been brought for the Red Fort at
Agra, for the construction of this temple. Built at the astronomical
cost of one Crore rupees in 1590 by his general Man Singh, the temple
combines western, Hindu and Muslim architectural elements in its
structure.
The Shri Krishna-Balram Temple built by the
International Society for Shri Krishna Consciousness (ISKCON), is one
the most beautiful temples in Vrindavan today. The principal deities of
this temple are Shri Krishna - Balram and Shri Radha - Shyam Sundar.
Adjoining the temple is the samadhi of Shri Prabhupada, the founder of
the ISKCON sect, built in pure white marble.
Other places of
interest include the Sriji Temple, Jugal Kishore Temple, Kesi Ghat, Lal
Babu Temple, Raj Ghat, Meera Bai Temple, Imli Tal, Kaliya Ghat, Raman
Reti, Varah Ghat and Chir Ghat.
The Seva Kunj is where Lord
Krishna once performed the Raaslila with Radha Rani and the Gopis and
Nidhi Van where the divine couple rested. The samadhi of Swami Haridasji
is situated here.
MahavanAround 18 km from
Mathura, lying on the left bank of the River Yamuna, is the large shrine
of Mathuranath. It is famed for its Chaurasi Khambha (eighty four
pillars). The palace of Rohini, the mother of Baldeo is now the
Chhathi-Palana Temple. Other important shrines include, the Shymlalji
Temple, the Yogmaya Temple, Tranairatri Temple and the Mahamall Rai Ji's
palace.
BaldeoBaldeo is 20 km southeast of
Mathura and 8.5 km south - east of Mahavan on the road to Sadabad. It
derives its name from the famous temple dedicated to Balram, the elder
brother of Lord Krishna. It was built by Shyam DAs of Delhi 200 years
ago. The main image in the sanctum is that the Baldeo or Balram with his
spouse Revati. Near by is the brick lined tank, the Khir Sagar or
Balbhadra Kund, from where the original image housed in the temple was
found.
GovardhanGovardhan is situated 26 km
west of Mathura on the state highway to Deeg. A famous place of Hindu
pilgrimage, Govardhan is located on a narrow sandstone hill known as
Giriraj which is about 8 km in length. The young Lord Krishna is said to
have held Giriraj up on the tip of a finger for 7 days and nights to
shield the people of Braj from the deluge of rain sent down by Lord
Indra.
Govardhan is set along the edge of a large masonry tank
known as the Mansi Ganga, which is believed to have been brought into
existence by the operation of the divine will. Its enclosures were built
by Raja Bhagwan DAs of Amer in 1637 and embellished by Raja Man Singh,
who built a long flight of steps leading up, from the end of the tank.
Close by is the famous red sandstone temple of Haridev and the Kusum
Sarovar with exquisitely carved chhatris - the cenotaphs of the members
of the royal family of Bharatpur, who perished whilst fighting against
the British in 1825. Towards the south is the beautiful chhatri of Raja
Surajmal of Bharatpur. Fine frescoes - illuminating the life of
Surajmal, vividly depict darbar and hunting scenes, royal processions
and wars.
ExcursionAgra Once
the capital of the Mughals and the city of the Taj Mahal, Agra is just
50 km from Mathura. The Taj Mahal, a symphony in white marble, a tribute
to eternal love, was built by the Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his
wife Mumtaz Mahal. Other splendid examples of Mughal architecture in
Agra include the Agra Fort with its exquisite Pearl Mosque, palaces and
darbar halls; the imposing mausoleum of Emperor Akbar at Sikandra, built
in an amalgam of Hindu and Muslim architectural styles and
Itmad-ud-Daula's tomb, embellished with coloured stone inlay and
filigree marble screens.
Fatehpur Sikri (60
km from Mathura) The wonderful city of Fatehpur Sikri was built by the
Emperor Akbar. The marvelously preserved fort, palaces and the tomb of
Salim Chishti with its delicate lacy marble screens are worth seeing.
AccessibilityAirNearest airport is Kheria (Agra), 62 km
RailMathura
is on the main lines of the Central and Western Railways and is
connected with all the important cities of the state and country such as
Delhi, Agra, Mumbai, Jaipur, Gwalior, Calcutta, Hydrabad, Chennai,
Lucknow etc.
RoadMathura is connected to all
the major cities, by National Highways. It is linked by the regular
state bus services of Uttar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan and
Haryana
Local TransportPrivate buses, Tempos, Rickshaws, Cycle Rickshaws and Tongas are also available
AccommodationHotel Madhuvan, Krishna Nagar, Ph : (0565)420064,420058, Fax : 420684
Best Western Radha Ashok, Masani By Pass Road, Chhatikara, Ph : (0565)420064, Fax : 420084.
Hotel Mansarovar Palace, State Bank Crossing, Ph : (0565)408686, 406525. Fax : (0565)401611.
Agra Hotel, Bengali Ghat Ph : 403318
Dwapar Resorts, 162 milestone, NH-2, Delhi-Agra Road, Ph : 842103, 842092
Hotel Megh Raj, Roshan Bazar, Tilak Dwar, Ph : (0565)406162
Modern Hotel, Opp Old Bus Stand, Ph : (0565)404747
Hotel Braj Vihar, Tilak Bazar, Ph : (0565)404209
Hotel Raj Mahal, Agra Road, Holi Gate, Ph : (0565)406598
Hotel Sanjay Palace, Arya Samaj Road, Holi Gate, Ph : (0565)407867
Hotel Sanjay Palace, Arya Samaj Road, Holi Gate, Ph : (0565)407867
Hotel Surya International, Near Bus Stand, Station Road, Ph : (0565)409344
Mangalam Tourist Lodge, Dampier Nagar, Ph : (0565)405965
Hotel Satyam, Masani Road, Near Janam Bhumi, Ph : (0565)406767
International Guest House, Krishna Janam Bhumi, Ph : (0565)405888
Rukmani Cottage, Dwarikadhish Temple, Ph : (0565)404200
Orphic Resorts Country Inn, Kosi Kalan (Mathura) Ph : 05662-32945
UPSTDC Tourist Bungalow, Civil Lines, Ph : (0565)407822
Krishna Lodge, Station Road
International Rest House, Shri Krishna-Balram Temple, Raman Reti, Ph : (0565)442478
Jaipuria Smriti Bhavan, Govardhan Darwaza, Ph : 442388
Yatrika, Near Municipal Committee
Jeevan Vallabh Yatri Niwas, Biharipura
More Bhavan, Govardhan Darwaza
Manorama Goyanka Guest House, Ph : (0565)442493
Geet Govind Tourist Complex, Nandanvan, Ph : (0565)442517
Sri Ram Vishanti Grah, Ph : (0565)442833
Govind Mohan Guest House, Ph : (0565)442456
Meera Mohan Guest House, Ph ; (0565)442233
Bharati Guest House
Sri Banke Bihari Guest House, Ph : (0565)443529, 443530
Dharmashalas : In Vrindavan there are nearly 200 dharmashalas, many of which are run by trusts